My shut associates inform me I have to cease telling you about Nozawa Onsen. Since our first visit in 2019, its reputation continues to develop, with 1000’s of different guests together with quite a lot of celebrities falling for the attraction of this Japanese village and ski resort.

Nonetheless.

I’m a whole lot of issues however I’m not a gatekeeper.

We’ve simply returned from our third go to to Nozawa Onsen and have already rebooked for 2027. In some ways every go to appears like coming residence, returning to vacation the place you’re acquainted with all that’s on supply. However it’s greater than that. Regardless of rising variety of guests to this village within the Nagano prefecture, Nozawa retains all of the attraction we skilled on our first go to.

It’s not as huge as its Nagano neighbour Hakuba, nor as flashy as Niseko, Hokkaido in Japan’s north. Nozawa Onsen is a working small Japanese village well-known for its slender lanes (the pathways are heated and snow-free because of the new springs), community-run public tub homes or onsens and the ogama or cooking onsen the place locals nonetheless go every day to cook dinner meals.

Its inhabitants of about 3500 swells to 1000’s extra in the course of the peak snow season which runs from late December to the tip of February. The busiest time is January, coinciding with Australian college holidays and Japanese nationwide holidays.

This was our first time visiting in February and within the final week of the excessive season. Aside from arriving on a Japanese public vacation weekend, the steadiness of the week was considerably much less crowded than we’d skilled in January. We did, nevertheless, have unseasonably heat climate (as much as 10 levels above common) and no recent snow. The 205cm base depth of snow on the mountain ensured all runs have been open which truly wasn’t the case on our final journey in early January 2024. Sure, it doesn’t matter what kind of vacation you’re reserving and planning, the one factor you possibly can’t management is the climate.

As a inexperienced run gradual skier, I used to be simply completely happy to be out and having fun with the bluebird days, sans jacket!

What to do in Nozawa Onsen when not on the slopes

Eat. Drink. Chill out and repeat.

You’re most likely not going to decide on Nozawa for those who you’re a 20-year-old on the lookout for pumping nightlife however as grown adults, there are such a lot of apres ingesting and early dinner choices to swimsuit all budgets and tastes. We largely sought out and ate Japanese meals, having fun with every little thing, from $12 ramen via to a $140 per individual chef’s teppanyaki omakase. Due to the format of the village, most venues (besides these on the mountain) are inside 10-Quarter-hour stroll from one another and most positioned within the centre of the village itself.

Suggestions

1. Some eating places supply on-line (by way of the TableCheck app) or electronic mail reserving and it’s smart to guide forward, significantly in busy occasions and/otherwise you’re travelling in a big group. Decisions are extra restricted for big teams as many eating places are tiny.
2. For eating places you possibly can’t guide forward, search them out when in Nozawa and take a look at for a walk-in or ask in individual to guide on one other night time.
3. Usually eating places will supply two sittings – 5.30 or 6pm and seven.30pm or 8pm.
4. Since our first go to, most venues now take card. Some supply a reduction for money.

Bars visited and advocate

Steinwerkz – positioned close to the principle gondola, this was our first cease for a mulled wine or espresso martini on the way in which again to our lodging

Nozawa Onsen Gin Distillery – a powerful working distillery providing superb gin, cocktails and bar snacks. We all the time carry some residence with us

Guruguru – a enjoyable bar positioned within the centre of the village

Chitto Sake Bar – a brand new bar on the principle avenue main out of the village centre on the way in which in the direction of the Swiss Bakery, intimate and enjoyable

Tone Cocktail Bar – additionally new and one thing you’d in any other case anticipate to stumble throughout in a laneway in Tokyo. Kazu the proprietor and mixologist has curated a cocktail menu that begs a return go to. It’s tucked away above the principle centre. We walked down a shower from the Neo Bar to seek out it.

Cafes and eating places visited and advocate

Tanuki cafe – a part of the Tanuki group of lodging, retailer (the place we purchase our souvenirs), eating places and bar. an amazing place for breakfast, lunch or dinner

Tanuki teppanyaki – with solely 14 seats and two sittings every night time, that is in demand. E-book as far forward as you possibly can for an exquisite omakase expertise. We liked each course.

Haus St Anton – well-known for the new steamed buns served exterior on the road, espresso and cafe however now has a degustation dinner providing within the resort the place chef Ken Katagiri crafts an beautiful menu placing native produce entrance and centre. E-book forward for this one.

Swiss Bakery Pizzeria – Kyoko and Gab Sutter supply espresso and Swiss-style bread and pastries by day and pizzas by night time. E-book forward, significantly in case you have a bigger group or wish to eat exterior within the gondola automobile. You too can order takeaway pizzas. 

Wanryu Ramen – positioned down a aspect avenue within the centre of city, we return right here for good worth, freshly ready tasty ramen and gyoza. Stroll-ins solely so attempt your luck.

Hamacho Sushi – additionally one we return to each go to for an genuine Japanese sushi providing. There are two seating time and you have to guide a set share menu. It’s subsequent door to Wanryu Ramen, so pop your head in when on the town to make a reserving or likelihood a stroll in.

Tonkichi – one other restaurant we return to for okonomiyaki (Japanese savoury pancakes) and yakisoba. Some seating is Japanese fashion on the ground; others on the bar or tables. You’ll have to guide forward for this one, often phoning within the afternoon. It’s a must to select a set menu (equal of about $23AUD) that features a starter, aspect, principal and non-alcoholic drink. 

Neo Bar – positioned not removed from the principle gondola, cease for apres sure however extremely advocate reserving dinner. Neo’s speciality is sukiyaki cooked in your personal desk high sizzling pot.

Popeyes – a magnet for Australians to cease whereas up on the mountain, providing espresso, burgers and parmies. An important spot for a lunch time drink exterior on a bluebird day. Discover it to the precise half method down the Paradise run.

Buna – additionally on Paradise and an establishment on the mountain for good worth Japanese meals. I really like the teriyaki rooster don or select one of many many nice curry topping choices.

Hakugin – subsequent to Buna on the Paradise run this Japanese menu is somewhat bigger than Buna and presents extra exterior seating.

For extra Nozawa Onsen restaurant choices, click on HERE and HERE.

The place to remain in Nozawa

Lodging is restricted due to the dimensions of the village so is extremely wanted within the excessive snow season. You could be fortunate to attain a last-minute reserving if somebody has cancelled however typically individuals are reserving a yr forward of their go to. Totally different operators and properties will open their bookings up for the next snow season at totally different occasions and often if somebody is seeking to rebook for the next yr, they get first dibs.

Now we have booked with and stayed at properties managed by each Nozawa Onsen Holidays and Akari House and extremely advocate the service and properties provided by way of each.

On this most up-to-date journey as a gaggle of two {couples} we stayed in a two-bedroom apartment within the Gondola Apartments complicated. Because the identify suggests, it’s very near the principle gondola entry to the mountain (100m stroll) and the principle a part of the village is a 10-minute downhill/uphill stroll away.

Beforehand we’ve stayed as a gaggle of two households in Tamanegi House. It’s a two-level home the place every household had separate lodging. Getting on the mountain from here’s a 400m stroll to a chairlift from which you’ll trip and ski throughout to the principle gondola. Strolling into the principle village is about 10 minutes alongside a flat snow-free path.

The place to rent snow gear

Your lodging will supply help and join you with the ski/snowboard rental enterprise they work with. They may also enable you to with raise passes and classes. 

The best way to get to Nozawa Onsen

You have got three choices for getting from Tokyo to Nozawa Onsen. Driving a automobile shouldn’t be really helpful in the course of the snow season because of heavy snowfall and restricted parking.

1. Catch a bullet practice from Tokyo Station to Iiyama Station (1hr 40min) then a 20-minute bus trip to Nozawa Onsen. We often do that originally of our journey, having stayed in Tokyo for 2 nights. On touchdown on the airport from Australia, we ship our giant suitcases and snowboard bag on forward to Nozawa by way of the Yamato baggage service. We then take carry-on solely into Tokyo, making it simpler to navigate practice journey. As an FYI, the JR East web site shouldn’t be so person pleasant for reserving practice tickets and you may solely guide tickets 30 days prematurely. We guide by way of Klook they usually then secured the tickets after they got here on sale 30 days out. Scorching tip: guide reserved seating if out there. 
2. Catch the snow shuttle from Haneda or Narita airports. Particulars HERE. We often catch the shuttle for the tip of our journey and are more than pleased simply to sit down again and chill out for the six hours. You have got a few stops alongside the way in which and it simply makes for a stress-free first leg of your return residence.
3. E-book a non-public switch from Tokyo, Haneda or Narita. Extra HERE.

Travelled to Nozawa Onsen not too long ago? Tell us beneath your favorite locations to remain and eat.

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