As we speak, modal cloth is used as a sustainable and vegan silk different. For a lot of manufacturers that wish to provide extra reasonably priced, sustainable choices to their clients – modal cloth makes that doable with out compromising an expensive appear and feel. However, there’s a secret to substituting modal for silk. And, it’s understanding that not all modals are the identical. Don’t fear, I’m going to provide the cheat code. Let’s begin from the start – what’s modal cloth? And what’s the materials utilized in?

WHAT YOU’LL LEARN

1. What is modal fiber?
2. Evolution of rayons and the invention of modal
3. How is modal fabric made?
4. Properties of modal fabrics 
1. stretch
2. really feel
3. shrinkage
4. absorbency
5. wrinkle
6. cold and warm climate
7. Washing and care directions
5. Should you use modal in your clothing line? 
1. 4 professionals of modal
2. 3 cons of modal
6. This or that?
1. Viscose vs modal
2. Tencel vs modal
3. Modal vs cotton
4. Modal vs polyester
7. Is the Lenzing modal better? 
8. Is modal really sustainable? 
9. Where to buy modal fabric
10. Additional fiber resources 

NO TIME TO READ? CHECK OUT THIS 60 SECOND SLIDE DECK 

 

WHAT IS MODAL FIBER

FIBER VS. FABRIC 

All materials are made up of fibers. 

Fibers are single strands concerning the width of a human hair. These fibers might be pure like cotton and silk, or man-made like modal and Tencel. The fibers are then spun collectively right into a yarn. And from there the yarns are mixed to kind a cloth by means of weaving or knitting. 

Modal is a fiber. And modal fibers make up a modal cloth. 

You’ll be able to have modal knit materials and modal woven materials.

Consider it this manner, modal is like eggs. An egg is an egg. However with that egg you may make all kinds of dishes – scrambled eggs, an omelet, poached, and so on.

That’s precisely the connection between fibers and materials.

MODAL VS RAYON

However, modal fiber can be a sort of rayon.  

Complicated proper?

Rayon is the umbrella time period for various artificial semi-synthetic fibers which can be made out of cellulose (plant materials). Different varieties of rayon embrace Tencel, Lyocell, Viscose, and Bamboo cloth.

One other time period for rayon fibers is regenerated cellulosic fiber (to not be confused with regenerative farming, which is a completely completely different factor).

HISTORY AND INVENTION OF MODAL FABRIC



Fiber science is an evolution. It’s continually altering, particularly in the present day with new applied sciences and variations being found commonly. Modal is an extension of that evolution. 

First got here the invention of viscose, which was then improved, and modal was invented. Modal cloth is taken into account second-generation viscose (Tencel and lyocell are third-generation). 

Whereas many individuals consider viscose as a substitute for cotton, it was really invented by French scientist Hilaire de Chardonnet as a substitute for silk. The primary viscose was extraordinarily flammable and needed to be recalled from the market as a result of it was simply too harmful. This led to the German Bemberg Firm growing a much less flammable and extra consumer-friendly variation. Whereas the Bemberg Firm simply wished to make one thing that wouldn’t explode into flames whereas cooking breakfast, the inventors of modal (in Japan in 1951) got down to create a extra sustainable possibility. 

HOW IS MODAL FIBER MADE?



The scientific course of. Yea, this is perhaps a bit boring. I imply, we’re right here for trend, not science, proper? However, understanding this course of will assist you perceive the sustainable advances in modal rayon, in addition to some greenwashing to keep away from. So, bear with me.

Step 1 – Gathering Cellulose

What’s modal cloth made out of? 

In modal, the supply of the cellulose (plant materials) is beech bushes. The rationale beech bushes had been chosen for modal is as a result of they propagate simply. Which means, they’re very straightforward to develop. Theoretically, you possibly can take a department from a birch tree, stick it within the floor, and develop one other one. And, birch bushes additionally develop in a short time – they don’t take the centuries that nice oaks take. This makes birch a great sustainable supply of cellulose. It may be regrown simply and shortly, stopping deforestation from tropical rainforest areas. 

Step 2 – The Wooden Pulp Breakdown

This a part of the manufacturing course of will not be so earth pleasant. On this step, the wooden pulp is damaged down. First into tiny wooden chips, then right into a liquid with the assistance of some fairly harsh chemical compounds – sodium hydroxide used.

Step 3 – Liquid Modal

Extra chemical compounds – carbon disulfate – is added to make a liquid modal fiber. And a chemical response takes place to create and orange substance referred to as sodium cellulose xanthate. 

We’ll get extra into all of the chemical compounds utilized in a bit bit.

Step 4 – Extrusion

The liquid modal fiber is then pushed by means of a spinneret, one thing that appears like a mini bathe head, into one other chemical answer – this time sulfuric acid. This causes the orange chemical answer to solidify, creating fibers.

Step 5 – Repeat

Then, the method is repeated with a number of the waste. Modal was the primary fiber to try a closed-loop mannequin. Which means, the waste of the method might return into the system to make extra of the fiber. 

Modal will not be an ideal closed-loop system; whereas some waste produced can return into the system, not all of it could actually. That’s the reason modal manufacturing is also known as a semi-closed loop system. 

Whereas that is way more environmentally pleasant than conventional viscose, third-generation lyocell was capable of utterly shut the loop, making an much more sustainable product.

WHERE IS MODAL FABRIC MADE?

Modal cloth is made everywhere in the world, however manufacturing hubs are situated in Austria, China, and even the US.

MODAL FABRIC PROPERTIES



What does modal cloth really feel like?

Is modal cloth stretchy?

Modal fibers on their very own are usually not very stretchy. However, you may make them stretchy by means of cloth development. Knit materials are inclined to have a number of pure engineered stretch in them. So a knit modal cloth, in comparison with a woven modal cloth will probably be extra stretchy. 

If extra stretch is required then it’s doable by means of cloth design – elastic, spandex, or lycra that are fibers with pure stretch in them, might be added.

How does modal cloth really feel?

Modal cloth manufactured from beech bushes feels just like silk or artificial bamboo cloth. It’s slick, shiny, and tends to have a cooler really feel. 

Does modal cloth shrink?

Modal fibers are very secure and have a tendency to not shrink. However (And, it is a massive ‘however’) simply because a fiber doesn’t shrink that doesn’t imply a cloth gained’t. 

When materials are knit or woven into textiles the yarns that make them are stretched. After the textiles come off the machines, they calm down a bit, which means they shrink a bit. Then, when water is added (suppose washing), they calm down much more, and shrink much more. Knit materials (talked about above for his or her stretch), are inclined to shrink lots when washed for the primary time. 

So, watch out. Simply because modal itself doesn’t shrink, that doesn’t imply your shirt will not.

Is modal cloth breathable?

Sure. Modal could be very breathable and performs equally to cotton. 

The trick to assessing if a cloth is breathable or not is taking a look at if it absorbent. Materials which have increased absorbancy charges, are usually extra breathable. 

Does modal cloth wrinkle?

With regards to wrinkles, modal is fairly center floor. Cotton and linen are inclined to wrinkle extra, however modal will not be as wrinkle resistant as polyester. 

If you need a wrinkle resistant modal, I’d advocate utilizing a knit cloth as an alternative of a woven one. That’s as a result of, normally, knit materials are inclined to wrinkle lower than wovens.

Is modal cloth heat?

Modal fibers don’t provide a lot insulation, so they don’t seem to be good for chilly climate. 

They do provide good wicking capabilities, which make them an amazing selection for heat climate. The key to good materials for warm climate isn’t just materials that take up sweat, however materials that may wick (which means transfer) the moisture away from the physique, and disperse moisture, to assist it evaporate shortly.  That cool feeling comes from evaporation.  

How do you wash modal fiber?

Washing and care directions for modal cloth will rely on the knit, weave, and different manufacturing particulars. However as a very good rule of thumb, wash in chilly water, and dry on delicate. Modal fibers might be steamed and ironed, however attempt to use a low setting to not harm the fibers with extreme warmth.

SHOULD YOU USE MODAL IN YOUR CLOTHING DESIGNS? 



 

To determine if utilizing modal cloth is the suitable selection for you, I wish to let you know about a number of modal materials professionals and cons. Let’s begin with the professionals.

MODAL FABRIC PROS

It’s a Good Monetary Different to Silk

As we speak modal is used as a silk different for each worth and ethics. Modal is a fraction of the value of actual silk. For instance, the identical costume that might be about $25 to provide in modal, would price about $50 or extra to make in silk. That’s an enormous distinction.

It’s Vegan

The opposite professional to utilizing Modal is that it’s vegan. Should you didn’t know, there may be a number of crossover between the sustainable and vegan trend areas. By utilizing a vegan possibility, manufacturers are capable of enchantment to a wider buyer base.

It Does Not Contribute to Deforestation

Whereas using viscose was a step in the suitable route (in my humble opinion), like all the pieces, it’s not good. And, one of many largest points with viscose is that it may very well be contributing to deforestation. Nonetheless, with modal, particularly the Austrian firm Lenzing’s modal, there tends to be way more transparency within the provide chain. Lenzing is among the largest suppliers of modal on the planet. The corporate works arduous to remove deforestation and confirm the place all its cellulose is coming from. And, as a result of modal is simply utilizing birch bushes and never any outdated sort of tree, like viscose rayon, the method of verification and tightening the provision chain tends to be simpler. 

It has Excessive Moist Modulus (HWM)

One of many downsides to utilizing viscose is that it tends to stretch out, particularly when moist. That makes washing and caring for viscose tough. Excessive moist modulus, or HWM signifies that a fiber is definitely stronger when moist. Within the case of modal, it’s about 50% stronger when moist. That signifies that it’s a lot simpler to clean and take care of modal than viscose. And, on the planet of sustainable trend, that could be a actually good factor. As a result of the simpler a garment is to clean, the longer it can final, and the longer it lasts, the much less seemingly it’s to finish up in a landfill. 

Modal tends to be straightforward to dye due to the fiber’s excessive absorption charge (how briskly it sucks that dye proper up). There additionally tends to be much less harm (learn cash misplaced) through the dying course of due to the elevated power.

CONS OF MODAL

It Nonetheless Makes use of Chemical compounds 

Many individuals consider that rayons are pure as a result of they’re made out of vegetation. However, as I defined earlier, a number of chemical compounds go into the fiber manufacturing course of. 

SODIUM HYDROXIDE

Sodium hydroxide is only one instance of these chemical compounds. Excessive concentrations of sodium hydroxide have been recognized to trigger burns to the eyes, pores and skin, digestive system, and lungs. And, extended publicity could cause everlasting harm, and in some circumstances loss of life. Sodium hydroxide can be dangerous to aquatic life. That’s as a result of when sodium hydroxide is available in contact with water, it creates an exothermic response. Which means it makes the water sizzling. Generally too sizzling for marine animals to outlive. 

CARBON DISULFIDE

There’s additionally use of carbon disulfide. Staff uncovered to carbon disulfide have complained of dizziness, poor sleep, complications, anxiousness, lack of urge for food from abdomen issues, and imaginative and prescient modifications when inhaled. Additionally it is believed the chemical could cause hurt to the eyes, kidneys, coronary heart, liver, nerves and pores and skin. 

SULFURIC ACID

Publicity to sulfuric acid could cause pulmonary edema – or a build-up of fluid within the lungs, which is a medical emergency. Repeated publicity could cause everlasting harm. Whereas the way in which we deal with these chemical compounds has improved by means of the years to guard the works in manufacturing vegetation, it’s nonetheless essential to keep in mind that these are some heavy-duty chemical compounds, and within the unsuitable palms or with out the right security steerage could cause critical lifelong issues.

It’s Tremendous Absorbent

Whereas that is professional for the dying course of, as talked about above. It may be a adverse for garment wearability and luxury. When you have ever seen, typically if you end up tremendous sizzling, and sweating lots, your cotton shirt would possibly really feel actually heavy. That’s as a result of all the sweat out of your physique is shortly absorbing into the shirt like a sponge. So, you may perceive why modal can be a horrible selection of fiber for swim and athletic put on.

It Drugs and Snags

Many on-line articles are reporting that modal doesn’t capsule. And, that merely will not be the case. 

I’ve run dozens of clothes packages that use modal cloth. And one of many issues I all the time talk about with my purchasers is that whereas the material appears lovely straight out of the manufacturing unit, there is perhaps some complaints sooner or later after the client washes it a number of occasions. 

There are additionally newer modals that have a tendency to tablet much less. Be sure to be very clear together with your improvement and manufacturing workforce that you really want an possibility engineered to tablet much less.

WHEN IS MODAL APPROPRIATE IN YOUR GARMENT DESIGN?

 

Many manufacturers get confused about what fibers they need to use for what sort of merchandise. So, I’m going to interrupt that down shortly for you. 

As a result of, right here is the factor. You’ll be able to have the nicest garment design, however should you use the unsuitable fibers and materials, it is going to be a catastrophe. So, for all of those examples, let’s fake we’re designing a costume, after which resolve which fiber can be finest for the design.

VISCOSE VS MODAL

The very first thing to recollect is that viscose and modal are each rayons. However, they’ve some completely different properties. Modal tends to have a silkier really feel than viscose, and it additionally tends to be extra breathable. Usually talking, modal tends to have a extra luxurious really feel than viscose, and it additionally tends to be dearer. 

Our costume instance: Each viscose and modal are going to create a really flowy breezy costume. However, in case you are involved with consolation, particularly in sizzling climate, you’d wish to go for modal. 

Additionally, in order for you a extra luxurious product (learn, promote for more cash), modal does are inclined to have a extra luxurious really feel and look than viscose. 

TENCEL VS MODAL

Once more, modal and Tencel are each several types of rayon. However, whereas modal mimics silk, Tencel tends to really feel extra like cotton. Besides, a extra cozy cotton.

Our costume instance: Modal and tencel are each going to supply a number of motion and flowyness within the cloth. However, in order for you the material to have increased shine, and really feel extra like silk, it’s best to select modal. 

If you need the costume to have extra of that cozy cotton really feel, then select Tencel.

MODAL FABRIC VS COTTON

Modal is a semi-synthetic rayon that was created to really feel like silk. Cotton is a pure cloth that tends to really feel a bit extra rugged. Naturally, cotton has a a lot stiffer handfeel than modal.

Our costume instance: A costume made with cotton will probably be extra inflexible, and have a tendency to have much more construction (suppose a woven button-down poplin shirt). Whereas, a costume made with modal will probably be flowy with motion or a light-weight breeze. 

MODAL FABRIC VS POLYESTER

Modal and poly are each going to supply shine and drape akin to silk. Usually, polyester is taken into account a straightforward care cloth. Which means it doesn’t wrinkle, and could be very straightforward to clean. The draw back to polyester although, is that it’s principally a plastic and tends to not breath properly – which means it isn’t nice for the warmth. 

Our costume instance: If you need one thing that won’t wrinkle (pondering packing in a suitcase for trip) polyester goes to be your finest wager. However, it’s additionally going to be sizzling and sweaty.

Should you additionally need the costume to be comfy, particularly in sizzling climate, I’d decide modal (simply keep in mind to pack a steamer for these wrinkles). 

Additionally, from a sustainability standpoint modal cloth is the clear winner right here.

IS PAYING MORE FOR LENZING FIBERS WORTH IT?



For my part, sure. 

You don’t simply get the traceability of the model, you additionally get tons of technological improvements that had been meant to unravel issues and assist you create one of the best product doable. That’s as a result of, Lenzing doesn’t simply make 1 sort of modal – they really make 9 differing kinds (as of April 2023). 

A couple of of my favorites…

These several types of fibers intention to unravel completely different issues for the client. Lenzing micro know-how is used to make modal micro and modal micro air. This know-how produces finer and lighter fibers which can be higher fitted to athletic put on. 

Lenzing eco colour know-how creates modal colour and modal colour black. These fibers are a particular set of choices that are available premade colour choices. The colour is definitely added into the liquid combine, earlier than it’s was strong fibers. The profit to this kind of know-how is that there is no such thing as a extra dying course of – which means it saves a TON (actually) of water and vitality. The draw back is, manufacturers should select from a predetermined set of colours. However one other profit to this know-how is that it tends to have higher colour retention (which means won’t fade) in comparison with different conventional dye strategies. The colour black is infamous for fading, so the truth that Lenzing makes a particular black possibility is noteworthy. And, Lenzing indigo colour, is simply what it seems like an indigo denim modal possibility.

IS MODAL REALLY SUSTAINABLE?



I saved this for the top. As a result of, to reply it you should perceive all of the ins and outs, and professionals and cons of utilizing it. The factor is, sustainability isn’t black and white. It isn’t good and unhealthy. Sustainability is about doing one of the best you possibly can. 

So, in case you are utilizing polyester for a costume, and may use modal then ya, it’s in all probability a extra sustainable possibility. However, if utilizing modal, like within the instance of swimwear, creates a decrease high quality product, one thing that folks gained’t like utilizing, and can simply depart of their closets, in the end find yourself in a landfill, then, no it’s not.

On the finish of the day if one thing is sustainable or not is decided by you and your values, not what {a magazine} article says.

There you go! All the secrets and techniques have been revealed. When you perceive all the pieces there may be to find out about modal, and by now you do, it’s actually as much as you should you take into account an possibility for you or not. Bear in mind, there is no such thing as a proper or unsuitable reply.

WHERE TO BUY MODAL FABRIC

BEST PLACES TO BUY SUSTAINABLE MODAL FABRIC

Lenzing

Global tradeshows 

ADDITIONAL FIBER RESOURCES 



What is rayon

What is polyester

Recycled cotton

What is tencel lyocell, and is it sustainable? 

DO YOU PLAN TO USE MODAL IN YOUR FASHION BRAND? 

Sustainable clothes manufacturers, let me know within the feedback – what do you suppose now that you simply actually perceive, what’s modal cloth? Are you going to make use of it in your line?