Nice drape? Verify. Doesn’t wrinkle if you put on it, or stuff it right into a suitcase for trip. You betcha. Simple to dye and for factories to work with. Yup. And, wait, it is also breathable (learn, snug), feels luxurious, and it’s sustainable. The fiber I’m speaking about is Lyocell. Or, in case your fancy, Tencel Lyocell cloth. So, what’s tencel cloth?

No marvel lyocell materials has turn into one of many style industries’ fibers of selection for the previous few years. As a result of, these options make it a very well-liked textile not only for clothes, but additionally dwelling items. However, if Lyocell is so good, why isn’t everybody utilizing it for every part? Don’t fear, I’ll get to that. 

This text goes to show you all about what lyocell is, discover the fibers execs and cons, show you how to decide if it’s the precise fiber in your clothes clothes, and educate you the place to supply it. 

We’re going to cowl some high-level textile stuff (sciencey). However, it’s vital, and I do know you possibly can deal with it. 

HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL LEARN

1. What is the difference between lyocell and Tencel?
2. What is lyocell fiber?
3. How is lyocell fabric made?
4. Properties of lyocell fabrics
1. Stretch 
2. Hand really feel
3. Shrinkage 
4. Absorbency 
5. Does it wrinkle? 
6. Is lyocell higher for decent or chilly climate?
7. Wash and care directions
5. Should you use lyocell in your clothing line?
1. Professionals
2. Cons
6. This or that?
1. Tencel™ lyocelll vs lyocell
2. Lyocell vs modal
3. Lyocell vs viscose
7. Sustainability – I saved this for the end for a reason
8. Where to buy Lyocell fabric
9. Additional sustainable fiber resources 

 

NO TIME TO READ? CHECK OUT THIS 60 SECOND SLIDE SHOW!

 

LYOCELL VS TENCEL?

Is lyocell the identical as tencell lyocell? Sure, and no. Is a Xerox and photocopy the identical factor? How a couple of band-aid and bandage? Or, a Kleenex and tissue? The distinction between every instance in all of those pairs is that one is a reputation model, and the opposite is generic.

Tencel Lyocell cloth is a name-brand model of Lyocell that’s made and managed by the corporate Lenzing.

However, it will get somewhat extra complicated. Whereas Lyocell is a fiber, and Tencel is the branded model of that fiber, lyocell can be a producing course of (I will clarify extra in only a minute).

The professional to utilizing Lenzing’s branded Tencel and never the generic form of fiber is that with Lenzing, you get all their traceability, which means you already know precisely the place and the way the fibers had been made. However, the down facet is that info comes at the next worth. 

WHAT IS LYOCELL FIBER?

Lyocell is a 3rd technology rayon. First got here viscose, then got here modal (which was an enchancment to the unique viscose system), then got here lyocell. And, all of those fibers are various kinds of rayons (suppose all squares are rectangles, however not all rectangles are squares).

All rayons are semi-synthetic cellulose fibers constructed from plant materials. Viscose, modal, and lyocell are simply various kinds of rayons. The identical method, scarlet, hearth engine, and crimson, are all completely different variations of the colour crimson.

Modal was first invented to attempt to make viscose extra sustainable, which resulted in a semi-closed loop system. Because of this a few of the waste product from the manufacturing of modal was capable of be reused to make extra. 

Then, lyocell took this a step additional and created an nearly utterly closed-loop system. About 99% of the waste from lyocell manufacturing may be put again into the system to make new fibers. Fairly cool, huh?

HOW IS LYOCELL MADE?

Lyocell fibers are made equally to viscose and modal. Lyocell and Tencel Lyrocell are semi- artificial fibers, which means they’re synthetic, however are derived from vegetation. A completely artificial fiber can be constructed from petroleum, FYI. 

Throughout the manufacturing course of, wooden pulp is gathered. The pulp is damaged down right into a liquid by chemical substances, and that liquid is pushed via a teeny tiny bathe head referred to as a spinnerette. It’s pushed into an answer on the opposite facet that may solidify the liquid and switch it into stable yarns.

Technically lyocell materials may be manufactured from any kind of regenerated cellulose, however bamboo and eucalyptus timber are typically the most well-liked wooden sources. 

Tencel lyocell may also be constructed from various kinds of wooden pulp, however typically, it’s constructed from eucalyptus solely. 

Each bamboo and eucalyptus are quick rising, to allow them to be harvested and replanted rapidly with out resulting in deforestation. 

BAMBOO FABRIC

I wager you might have seen bamboo cloth marketed as a sustainable cloth choice in shops. It’s particularly well-liked in pajamas, and residential items like mattress sheets. 

However, that bamboo cloth isn’t what plenty of manufacturers and the media have led you to consider. It isn’t a pure fiber that comes from the dust like cotton. 

It’s a rayon.

Now, right here is one thing very attention-grabbing that lots of people don’t know. Bamboo rayon may be made in two alternative ways. It may be made utilizing the previous viscose rayon system. Or, it may be made utilizing the lyocell system. Viscose bamboos have a tendency to not be a really sustainable choice, whereas bamboo lyocell that’s made in a closed-loop manufacturing system is.

So, the following time you might be shopping for bamboo mattress sheets, know they’re nothing particular, they’re simply common previous viscose or lyocell. 

 

WHAT ARE THE PROPERTIES OF LYOCELL FIBERS?

This part goes that will help you study lyocell cloth properties – every part that Lyocell can and may’t do. This fashion, you possibly can decide, for your self, whether it is the most suitable choice in your clothes assortment. 

For simplicity, on this part I’m going to make use of the phrase Lyocell, however please observe that every part I’m saying additionally applies to Tencel Lyocell cloth and fibers as effectively. 

What does lyocell cloth really feel like?

Lyocell seems like a cotton viscose mix. It’s one of the best of each worlds! Lyocell has that good, slinky, drapable really feel that appears like silk or viscose. However, it tends to really feel extra comfortable and comfy like cotton. 

Whenever you take a look at lyocell materials beneath a microscope, you possibly can see tiny hair fibers poking up. This is able to even be the case in the event you had been cotton. These little hair fibres are what create that comfortable really feel (in comparison with a glossy and clean hand really feel with silk).

Is lyocell cloth stretchy?

Lyocell, by itself, shouldn’t be a stretchy fiber. However manufacturers that use it’s going to typically add spandex, elastane, or lycra, that are all very stretchy fibers. Underwear is a typical instance of a lyocell product that additionally has elastane added into the material!

However, there are different methods to get stretchy materials with out including stretchy fibers. 

Knit materials are inclined to have extra engineered stretch than woven materials. That means you should utilize non stretch fibers, and nonetheless get a stretchy cloth. So, if you’re in search of a stretchy lyocell cloth with out elastic, go for a knit over a woven. 

Does lyocell cloth cloth shrink?

Lyocell fibres have a tendency to not shrink considerably. 

However, a very powerful consider cloth shrinkage shouldn’t be the precise fiber, however the cloth building. Knits, particularly unfastened knits, are inclined to shrink essentially the most. Woven materials are typically extra secure. 

The way in which round shrinkage, irrespective of the fiber, is to have the material mill pre-shrink the material by pre-washing it or utilizing a system referred to as sanforizing. Sanforization is extra eco-friendly as a result of it doesn’t use water. As an alternative a machine vibrates the material to calm down the yarns, which permits them to shrink as much as the identical method a washer would. 

Is lyocell cloth absorbent?

It is extremely absorbent. Much more so than cotton. Cotton fibers have an absorbance of about 8%, whereas lyocell materials has round 11%.

This elevated absorbancy is nice for shifting moisture away from the physique, and making a cool-feeling cloth – good for decent climates.

Does lyocell cloth wrinkle?

The flexibility to not wrinkle is definitely referred to as resiliency within the textile science group.

Resilience is rated on a scale: glorious, good, honest, or poor. Cotton and viscose have poor resiliency, which means they wrinkle simply. Lyocell materials is available in with a score of honest. Whereas that isn’t nice, it’s nonetheless higher than the opposite two fiber choices. 

And, if you’re curious, the fiber with among the finest resiliencies is polyester. 

Is lyocell cloth perfect for decent climate?

In sizzling climate, lyocell is excellent at not simply absorbing but additionally wicking moisture. Wicking appears like a brilliant technical sporty time period, however actually all it means is moisture motion. So, materials which are good at shifting moisture are good at wicking. 

When a cloth is each good at absorbing and shifting moisture, it is a perfect choice for decent climates. That’s as a result of it’s going to take in sweat from the wearers physique, then transfer and unfold it out so it evaporates rapidly. The important thing to staying cool isn’t simply absorbing it up; it’s evaporating it rapidly. That evaporation is what creates the feeling of cooling. 

What are the wash and care directions for lyocell cloth?

Whereas lyocell shouldn’t be as delicate a fiber as silk, I nonetheless advocate washing on chilly and drying on a tumble setting. Trendy washing machines and dryers create plenty of friction. That friction is what breaks clothes down and makes them look worn out. 

I additionally at all times give shopers the bonus tip to scrub garments inside out. By doing this, you’ll shield the material on the surface and assist preserve your garments lookinf new for longer.

PROS OF LYOCELL FIBERS 

One: It’s a Good Different To Natural Cotton

I can’t let you know what number of occasions I’ve had this actual dialog with designers (too many). It goes one thing like this…

Designer – I need to use solely natural fibers

Me – cool, cotton?

Designer – no, cotton is simply too stiff and inflexible, I used to be one thing flirty and flowy

Me – okay, how about silk

Designer – no, too costly

Me – rayon?

Designer – no, I prefer it, however in line with the influencer I observe, rayon isn’t eco pleasant and is killing orangutans

Me – okay, so we’re again to cotton or silk, then

And, we by no means actually get wherever. 

Lyocell is form of the loophole to this dialog. 

It presents the flowyness that designers are in search of, however it’s rather more sustainable than conventional viscose. It’s the bridge between cotton that’s too stiff, and rayon that results in deforestation and different environmental contamination points.

Two: It Is Extra Sustainable

Lyocell doesn’t contribute to deforestation or chemical substances within the setting and is biodegradable. 

Probably the most vital but missed points with sustainability is wearability. I at all times inform my shoppers, you possibly can have essentially the most sustainable fibers and merchandise on this planet. However, if nobody needs to put on it as a result of it’s ugly or doesn’t carry out effectively, then what’s the level?

Lyocell materials lets you have your hyperboreal cake and eat it too. 

That’s as a result of, Lyocell is a flexible and sustainable cloth that gives an incredible various to conventional supplies like cotton and rayon. Its capacity to wick moisture, form retention, and biodegradability make it perfect for decent climates and eco-conscious shoppers. With correct care, Tencel Lyocell clothes can last more and assist scale back our influence on the setting, as sustainable style continues to achieve recognition.

CONS OF LYOCELL FIBERS

One: It Nonetheless Makes use of Chemical substances and different Sources

Lyocell shouldn’t be a pure fiber, although it’s typically constructed from bamboo or eucalyptus. And on the finish of the day, plenty of chemical substances and sources are getting used to create it. Some examples of those chemical substances embrace N-methyl morpholine- N-oxide (NMMO) and amine oxide (MMNO). Each of those chemical substances are thought of very low toxins, and many of the chemical substances (as much as 99%) may be reused once more within the course of. 

However, the gathering of the wooden, turning it into pulp, making a fiber, then packaging and delivery these fibers to a yarn spinner is all very useful resource heavy. It requires water, warmth, and tons of electrical energy! Which all result in local weather change. 

When you concentrate on recycled and regenerated supplies usually, ask your self, how rather more wants to enter the system, for one thing new to come back out? And, is the price of these sources value it?

Two: It’s Dear

Model identify Tencel Lyocell cloth is much more costly than textiles made with generic fibers. However, lately, the value of Tencel lyocell cloth has come down quite a bit. However nonetheless, it is among the most costly fibers round. 

To scale back prices many manufacturers find yourself utilizing generic lyocell materials, which often means much less transparency (learn, perception into put on the fibers got here from and the way they had been made).

Understanding this tradeoff between worth and transparency, is, for my part, one of many keys to understanding greenwashing. 

THIS OR THAT 

Once more, I will likely be utilizing the time period lyocell to incorporate Tencel Lyocell cloth on this part. 

Okay, so let’s faux we’re designing a womens gown. Within the following examples, I’ll let you know the place lyocell can be your best option or the place different fibers could be a more sensible choice. 

Let’s go!

Lyocell VS Cotton

What we’re actually on this comparability is move vs construction.

A lot of my shoppers typically complain that they love the texture of cotton, however it’s simply too stiff for the types they’re creating. They need one thing that strikes and flows within the wind. So, If you need that simple, breezy, consolation of cotton, however somewhat extra move. Lyocell is the selection.

Lyocell VS Modal

Similar, similar, however completely different.

Do you favor the texture of silk or of cotton? Each materials are going to have a pleasant drape and really feel. They can even each have plenty of motion (suppose, not stiff or structured). If you need your gown to really feel extra like silk and be a bit extra shiny, modal is the way in which to go. For a extra pure and matte cotton really feel, select lyocell materials.

Lyocell VS Viscose vs Cotton

For manufacturers that need the texture of cotton, however the drape of silk.

Lyocell materials is in contrast to all different viscose as a result of it’s designed to really feel extra like cotton. The fiber will fibrillate when washed. That means, it’s going to turn into somewhat bit fuzzy, the way in which cotton does. 

Now, there’s a hack to get a viscose to really feel like cotton. And that’s by utilizing staple-length viscose fibers. Viscose is mostly one very lengthy filament fiber. However some producers will reduce it up into cotton-size items, and twist these items collectively to kind a yarn. The result’s a cloth that feels quite a bit like cotton.

So, once more, if you need a cotton really feel with a silk like move, the Rolls-Royce rayon of fibers goes to be lyocell. However, if you’re in search of one thing cheaper, you possibly can attempt staple size (don’t overlook to say that bit) viscose.

For all of the property comparisons of cotton, viscose, lyocell, and modal, click here.

IS LYOCELL SUSTAINABLE? SHOULD I USE IT IN MY BRAND?

Are you in search of sustainably sourced textiles? It could be best for you. Or, perhaps not. 

It actually is determined by you and your values. 

If you already know me, then you already know I’m a real believer that nothing and every part is sustainable. 

The correct reply for each model is determined by what the tip use of the product is, and the professionals and cons of the choice. 

That’s the reason I took the time to create a lot high-level, textile science, info on this article. I didn’t simply need to let you know, hey Lyocell is a closed loop system, and it doesn’t use petroleum; omg, so sustainable use it. I would like you to study the details and make your personal choices for your self. 

WHERE TO BUY LYOCELL FABRICS

Fascinated with utilizing Lyocell, or branded Tencel Lyocell cloth in your line? Listed below are a few of the greatest methods to supply the materials you might be in search of.

• Start with Lenzing: Lenzing is….They are going to be capable to direct you to cloth producers of their provider matrix. They could be somewhat extra pricy, however if you purchase from them, you already know that the cellulosic supplies going into their system should not damaging the planet and resulting in deforestation, making this course of extra environmentally pleasant.
• Birla Excel: The little recognized competitor of Lenzing is Excel fibers by Birla. “Birla Excel is constructed from a novel closed-loop course of the place the byproducts are utterly reused, thereby minimizing discharge and decreasing environmental influence. Designers swear by this resilient, wash & put on cloth because it imparts great lustre, drape and softness. Its distinctive propensity to fibrillate may be managed or accentuated for aesthetic versatility.”

ADDITIONAL FIBER RESOURCES

Wish to study extra about different kinds of sustainable fibers? I obtained you.

• Rayon: every part you possibly can probably ever need to learn about all of the completely different sorts of rayon.
• Recycled cotton: execs and cons, and knowledge on if it’s a commercially viable choice to assist clear up style provide chains.
• Recycled polyester: Is it actually simply greenwashing? Spoiler, kinda.
• Modal: a complete breakdown, similar to this text, however on modal as a substitute.

WHAT DO YOU THINK?

Do you propose to make use of Lyocell or Tencel Lyocell cloth in your model? Let me know within the feedback!